Expensive Wine vs. Cheap Wine: What’s the Difference?

Contrary to popular belief, the margins are surprisingly similar in new world wines! Besides the obvious price differences in “buying power” between a small winery and a large conglomerate when it comes to product and materials, there is a significant quality factor at play (which comes at a great difference in expense).

Mechanical Night Harvest

A large conglomerate that mass produces an inexpensive new world wine will typically utilize a mechanical harvest that isn’t selective about the grapes it’s dropping. That’s right, I said “dropping”. A mechanical harvest typically involves a tractor that mechanically grabs, and shakes the vines until the grapes drop to the ground or into a catch and conveyor that dumps them into a large bin. While this is a fast and efficient method for a massive harvest, keep in mind that bruised, ripe, unripe and even rotten grapes are gathered along with bugs, bird droppings, sticks, leaves, and anything else you can imagine to be thrown into the crush. While a certain amount of human interaction is involved for sorting, only the large and obvious issues are likely to be tended to - especially during night harvests. In good humor, you might say there is likely a good representation of nature (rather than terrior) in a $4 bottle, or a $15 to $20 box of wine. Unfortunately, when you press all the ____ in with an inconsistent quality of grapes (if you’re lucky, it’s all floated or rinsed in hose water prior to the crush), all you’ll likely get is a light bodied, bland, watered down, slightly fruity, and low quality glass of wine. Sound familiar? Oh, and it’s typically going to be spiked with the maximum allowable level of sulfites (in the form of sulfur dioxide powder) to act as a preservative, slow oxidation, and inhibit the growth of bacteria both in the wine and the winery equipment. Rather than consulting the services of an experienced wine maker to assist in arriving at a premium product with optimum flavor, body, and finish, the goal is simply to make the wine drinkable and tasty – which, when I was a college boy and didn’t know any better, was good enough to quench my thirst without leaving me broke. While there are going to be exceptions to the rule (as higher quality organizations may invest more in the sorting process), just remember that as in nearly everything, you get what you pay for.

You can expect quite the contrary from a more expensive wine, as the grapes have usually been hand harvested (in some cases multiple times to insure optimum quality and ripeness), and great pride and care has gone into the entire process. Most of your higher quality wines could actually qualify as certified organic (lacking only the extensive government imposed paperwork, costly permits, and time consuming inspections) – considering the level of “hands-on” daily attention employed in the vineyard. An experienced (and usually well known) wine maker is hired (or at least consulted) to assist in developing a polished and high quality finished product that meets the target goals and expectations of the winery owner. The wine is aged to an optimum level before being shipped to selective outlets, and samples are submitted to well known rating services such as Robert Parker and Wine Spectator to add respectable credibility and earn public trust in the market. A legacy of quality, respectable ratings, and a loyal customer following can increase demand for a limited production wine to the point that the price may seem out of reach for many. However, while quality comes at a price, it’s usually available from around $12 to $15 per bottle for a young and light to medium bodied fruity wine, to $18 to $75 for a slightly older, medium to heavy bodied and complex wine with a longer finish. In short, lower price equates to less attention to detail that was applied both in the vineyard and the winery, which will be reflected (and is typically easily detectable) in the quality of the final product.

If you’ve ever wondered why you should buy a $30 bottle of wine rated 90 points by Robert Parker, when there’s a $15 bottle rated at 88 points, keep in mind that the point system is also relative to price (not to mention someone’s opinion). That $30 bottle of wine would likely be rated much higher if sold for much less, or significantly lower if sold for much higher. Once again, rest assured that you’re usually getting what you pay for.

Wine & Headaches

Millions of people report getting headaches after drinking wine, and I’m not necessarily talking about a hang over the next day. Some people report getting headaches after drinking white wine, others after drinking red, and some after drinking ANY wine. I’ll admit that even I get headaches now and then after drinking red wine, frequently after drinking cheap red wine, and sometimes even after eating a lot of cheese. If you’ve ever wondered what brings this phenomenon on, this article is for you!

While dehydration can play a significant roll in how you’ll feel the day after drinking, there are different things that influence the way your body metabolizes alcohol. DNA, age, gender, health, and your level of physical activity all play a roll in how each of us reacts to alcohol. Regardless, there are a few common factors to be considered, such as tryamine, histamines, tannins, and sulfites.

Tyramine is a chemical found in red wine that is said to dilate blood vessels, which can trigger migraines in some people. Tyramine is typically produced during fermentation of food products, which means it can be present in over ripened or dried fruit, matured or aged meat, processed food, and cheese. While cream cheese has little notable amounts of Tyramine, most aged cheeses are highly concentrated along with cured meat, fermented soy products (such as sauces and tofu), and any processed food containing yeast extract or shrimp paste. If Tyramine is causing your problems, you might try sticking to less concentrated white wines and cutting back on aged and cured foods a little. Or if you’re like me, you’ll just take it in stride and “suffer” the side affects now and then.

Histamines are organic nitrogen compounds that triggers an inflammatory response in your body. Histamines are found naturally in fermented foods and beverages by the fermenting of bacteria or yeasts, and are reportedly more prevalent in red wine than in white. There are a number of “experts” around that dispute any evidence to this, but I’ve known people that will actually begin sneezing sporadically, and start sounding like they’re coming down with a cold after 4 or more glasses of red wine (while showing obvious signs of intoxication). According to Wickipedia, wine contains 2-10 mg of histamine per liter, while Sake contains 20-40mg/L. More likely than not, histamines would potentially have a magnifying affect on a person who already suffers from allergies during such profiled seasons. Either way, it shouldn’t be too difficult to accept the idea that you could get a sinus headache from drinking too much red wine. I’ve heard of people taking an inhibitor an hour or so before consuming red wine (such as aspirin, acetaminophen, or ibuprofen), but be sure to adhere to their warnings that if you consume three or more alcoholic beverages per day, you should consult with a doctor before taking their product.

Tannins are the flavonoids found in grape skins, stems, and seeds that give a wine that mouth-drying sensation when left in contact with the juice during production. While tannins are typically more noticeable in red wines (as that’s where they derive their color), they are also absorbed through barrel aging. Some experts have reported that tannins can cause the release of serotonin (a neurotransmitter), of which high levels can cause headaches in people who suffer from migraines. If tannins are the cause of your headaches, you could try limiting your wine consumption to whites that typically forego barrel aging – such as Riesling, Italian Pinot Grigio, or Torrontes.

Sulfites occur naturally in all wines (protecting them from oxidation and bacteria), and can also be added as a preservative to enhance the aging process. Without that sulfur, grape juice would simply turn into vinegar. Generally speaking, white wines will typically contain more sulfites than red wines, and sweet dessert wines will contain more than dry wines. While sulfites are reported as being among the top nine food allergens, less than 1% of the population is supposed to have a reaction to them, and at this time there are reportedly no reliable studies that link sulfites to migraines. If sulfites are your main concern, then it should also be noted that they’re used as a food preservative as well (especially in dried fruit and potato products), and can be labeled as sulfur dioxide, potassium bisulfite or metabisulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, or sodium sulfite. Asthmatics and people with aspirin sensitivity are warned that they may be at an elevated risk for sulfite reactions that typically include sneezing, swelling of the throat, and hives.

Do your homework and you’ll find numerous reliable studies that support the information provided above. On a more personal note, I’ve found there to be a number of ways for the average person to avoid minor headaches from drinking wine. When I was a youngster in the Air Force working on planes, I had the opportunity more than once to witness the miraculous “hang over” combating attributes that a pilot’s oxygen mask held. It’s pretty amazing how breathing low pressure pure oxygen for a minute or two can knock out a headache better than any drug on the market. While I can’t recommend trying this at home (due to obvious dangers), you should make a mental note of the cause and effect. If you’ve ever wondered why one day you can drink to your hearts content with no negative “day after” affects, and then another day you suffer with a terrible headache after barely drinking anything, you should consider your level of activity. The harder you’re breathing and the faster your heart is beating, the more oxygen is being brought in and pumped throughout your body. In general, your liver can metabolize one 5oz glass of wine per hour with minimal side effects. However, you can get a leg up on the task if you’re healthy, active, hydrated, and eating something while you drink. I’ve found that I’m more likely to get a headache after drinking a glass or two of wine when I drink alone and I’m sedentary, than when I’m with company and having a good time. Besides, a bottle of wine is always better when shared with someone!

Amarone della Valpolicella

Better known as simply “Amarone” (Ah-ma-ROH-nay), this is typically a powerful, high-extract Veronese (Italian) wine often showing ripe and raisined fruit, earth, and smoke. Amarone will generally consist of 50 to 70% (or sometimes even more) Corvina grapes (a cool climate red variety from the Veneto region of northern Italy), and blended with lesser percentages of Rondinella and Molinara grapes, and sometimes even Sangiovesse and Pinot Nero, all dried prior to pressing to concentrate the juices and maximize skin contact bringing tannins, color, and intense flavor to the wine. While traditionally the grapes were air dried on straw mats, today it’s typically done in controlled drying chambers to minimize handling and help prevent the onset of Botrytis cinerea (fungus or rot).

If you prefer a high alcohol dry red wine, this is a great choice easily showing 15 to 17% (with a legal minimum of 14%). However, with the labor intensive process required to produce a quality Amarone (and release dates often 4 or 5 years after harvest), you can expect to pay a worthy price ranging from $25 to $100 or more.

Ossobuco with Risotto

While some prefer to drink this wine by itself after a meal (as it can be a little difficult to pair), it can still compliment strong and richly flavored foods such as Parmigiano-Reggiano or true Gorgonzola cheese, or a slow cooked beef dish or Ossobuco (cross-cut veal shanks braised with vegetables) with red wine and broth. Another great match would be slow cooked beef ribs and potatoes with Sicilian Caponata (a cooked vegetable salad consisting of chopped fried eggplant, celery, and even stewed tomatoes if you like). The idea (or suggestion) is to pair this intense wine with a strongly favored cheese or slow cooked dish from the general region of its origin to recognize its full potential.

Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Before embarking on my educational path to wine, I had always heard that the only difference between Champagne and Sparkling Wine was its origin (referring to Champagne only being from Champagne, France), and that the size of the bubbles was an indication of its quality. Um, there’s a little more to it than that. Here’s a little history, a brief and interesting explanation of how quality sparkling wine is made, and a few simple suggestions for selecting a delicious bubbly.

It’s true that only sparkling wines produced in Champagne, France should technically be referred to as “Champagne”, and those made elsewhere as “sparkling wine”. As for the history, it’s said that Champagne was accidentally discovered by the Benedictine monk Dom Perignon (1638-1715); however, most of those stories you’ll find posted on the web are a bit far fetched. In reality (dating back to the 17^th century), the Champenois were competing with their Burgundian neighbors to the south to produce similar quality RED wines, but the grapes struggled to ripen fully with the colder temperatures in Champagne, and they (the cooler temperatures) also caused fermentation to halt prematurely in the cellars (leaving dormant yeast cells). When the warmth of the spring hit, fermentation would start up again (now in the bottle) resulting in the release and buildup of carbon dioxide gas. With pressure building inside of the weak early French glass bottles, they would explode causing havoc in the cellars. If the bottle survived, the wine had bubbles, and was considered to be faulty. While Dom Perignon and the rest of the late 17^th century Champenois wine makers were trying to rid their wines of the troubling bubbles, the British were developing a taste for them. As you can imagine, if fermentation was thought to have finished, the wine was bottled, sold, and shipped before the chaos of a warm spring began. As time went on, more Champenois wine makers were trying to make their wines sparkle deliberately, as it eventually became a favorite among the nobles. For years they struggled to control the process and make wine bottles that were strong enough to withstand the pressure. It wasn’t until the 19^th century that the obstacles were finally overcome, and the modern Champagne wine industry was birthed.

Methode Champenoise (pronounced: meh-TOHD  sham-pen-WAH) or “the Champagne Method”, also known as Methode Traditionale outside of France, is a time honored process (historically evolved and perfected) that typically takes a year or more to fully complete. It is considered to be the most natural and highest quality method in the production of top quality sparkling wines. Basically, the wine goes through two stages of fermentation, the second actually being in the bottle you’ll end up purchasing. Carbon dioxide develops naturally (as opposed to being artificially injected), and more than 100 PSI will build up in the bottle eventually dissolving into the wine. Spent yeast cells will sink to the bottom of the bottle and form sediment (called lees), and many quality wines will be aged in contact with the lees to add a creamy mouth-feel to a rich and flavorful sparkling wine. Once the aging period is over, the necks of the bottles (having been kept upside down and in constant motion during this second fermentation) are frozen, the bottles are turned right side up, the caps are popped, the frozen lees (formed into plugs) shoot out, and the bottles are corked before the carbonation escapes the well chilled wine. Compared to other methods, sparkling wines produced by Methode Champenoise (which is the only method practiced in Champagne, France) will typically show nicer and longer in the glass with rich yet delicate and complex nuances, and countless streams of dazzling bubbles leading your nose to a crisp vapor of succulent fruit.

Sparkling wines are typically available from very dry to sweet (offering various appealing styles to satisfy your preference or pair with your favorite dish) and are usually labeled as follows (bolded are the most common found in stores here in the US):

Brut Nature (bone dry) - 0 to 3 grams of sugar per litre
Extra Brut (nearly bone dry) - 0 to 6 grams of sugar per litre
Brut (very dry) - 0 to 12 grams of sugar per litre

Extra Sec or Extra Dry (off-dry to dry) - 12 to 17 grams of sugar per litre

Sec or Dry (semi-sweet) - 17 to 32 grams of sugar per litre

Demi Sec (sweet) - 32 to 50 grams of sugar per litre
Doux or Sweet (very sweet) - 50+ grams of sugar per litre

A sparkling wine labeled “Blanc de Noir” simply means that it’s a white wine made from Pinot Noir (or black) grapes. Because the skins are removed before the color is extracted, it will still typically appear as a white (or pink) sparkling wine, and its flavor can be fairly full bodied and complex.

A sparkling wine labeled “Blanc de Blanc” means that it’s a white wine made from white (or green) grapes (typically Chardonnay) and is usually a lighter and fruitier version than a Blanc de Noir.

Your safest investment is to make sure the sparkling wine you purchase is either from Champagne, France, or is labeled as having been produced by Methode Champenoise or Methode Traditionale. In my experience, most wineries willing to invest the necessary (costly and time consuming) efforts required for this method are more likely to have a quality product worth trying. While you can find sparkling wines made by Methode Champenoise for as little as $7 per bottle in some stores, you’re likely to better enjoy something around the $20 to $40 range that will typically show more depth and unique complexity, and better reflect its regional terrior as well as the creative touch of its maker.

Remember, just because it’s a “sparkling” wine doesn’t mean it has lost its affinity for food. Champagne doesn’t need to be limited to special occasions, celebrations, and dessert. Like other white wines, it still pairs nicely with a number of cheeses and great dishes like crab and lobster, Mediterranean prepared veggies and fruit, Asian dishes,  chicken, and so much more!

Don’t be afraid to experiment while you celebrate life!