The Scoop On Malbec

If you’re a Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot fan, there’s a good chance you’ll like a good Malbec and have the opportunity to save some money! Because Malbec’s are not marketed as heavily as Cab’s or Merlot’s, and are in greatest supply from Argentina (where vineyard and winery labor is currently less expensive than France or the US), you can find a number of great values worth investing in.

Malbec is a fairly thin skinned grape variety that typically creates deep inky red or violet colored wines with core characteristics of plum, blueberry, raspberry, fig, and even licorice. In my experience, younger wines (1 to 2 years old) tend to be more fruity and simple in style, while slightly older wines can show a little cocoa, coffee, and clove with a little oak aging. Old Vine Malbec’s are frequently more concentrated and earthy in flavor with a little spice on the finish. Tannins are usually fairly mild, as expected from a thin skinned grape variety, and I’ve found them to be more the byproduct of barrel aging than anything else.

In my opinion, Alamos, Luigi Bosca, Inacayal, Gascón, and Gimenez Riili produce some very nice Malbec’s for around $10 to $25 with structure, depth, complexity, and finish that rivals that of most California Cabernet’s and Merlot’s at twice the price. Variety being the spice of life, and value a sought after commodity in a struggling economy, every red wine enthusiast owes it to themselves to give this little known treasure a taste.

Most Malbec’s pair well with just about anything you would have with a Cabernet Sauvignon, especially Meatloaf, short ribs, and steak. Though elegant enough for fine cuisine, Malbec can also liven up and compliment pizza, simple poultry, and even beans and rice. For the cheese lover, try Manchego, Romano, Gouda, and even Swiss for an incredible combination.

2008 Bourgogne / Maison Bertrand Ambroise

For just under $20, this Pinot Noir is a great starting point from which to begin a journey into the world of Burgundy wines. It’s easy to get lost in Burgundy with more than 100,000 acres of vines, 15,000 growers, and 100 or more négociant (wine brokerage) firms that purchase grapes from small producers throughout the region for blending. While négociants account for more than 70% of Burgundy’s total wine production, this 2008 Bourgogne boasts “Maison” (meaning house) along side the producer’s name, indicating that Bertrand Ambroise is a large enough producer to both grow all their own grapes, and make their own wine. Holding the classification of Appellation Bourgogne Contrôlée indicates that the producer is allowed to source any one (or all) of their own vineyards for the production of this wine, lending flexibility in their selection to insure an adequate harvest of top quality grapes for the final blend.

I found this Burgundy to be somewhat rustic in style, medium bodied, well balanced, and moderately acidic with light but dry and earthy tannins. I also experienced ripe and dusty fruit on the nose, mild yet concentrated cranberry on the palate, and a hint of tobacco on the finish. This Burgundy should pair nicely with mildly spiced dishes of grilled or roasted chicken, turkey, duck, lamb, or pork; and the addition of a wine reduction or mushroom sauce would make it even better! I could also see this wine pairing nicely with a beef stew, medium grilled fish in a rich or hearty sauce, and a number of firm and savory cheeses such as Manchego, Romano, Swiss, and Gouda.

August Briggs; 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

August Briggs is a family owned Napa Valley winery known for producing limited quantities of coveted wines created from various top vineyards across the northern coastal counties of California. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Joe Briggs (the winery owner) on a couple of occasions, and I can personally vouch for his passion and dedication to making consistently great wines that are dictated not by predetermined commitment, but rather by the quantity of quality grape supply available to work with. August Briggs wines are characterized by unwavering balance and complexity, intense fruit structure, and a classy packaging highlighted by rich gold lettering and an artist’s depiction of a dandelion blowing in the wind.

The 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir further validates August Briggs as a quality producer, raising the bar yet again. With only 340 cases of production, the grapes were hand sorted and de-stemmed, and the wine  underwent malo-lactic fermentation (for a more balanced level of acidity) prior to being barrel aged for 8 months (30% in new French oak, and 70% in two to three year old French oak). Being bottled without fining or filtration for enhanced character, you can expect to experience a Burgundian style California Pinot with  refined balance and a premium level of complexity. I found this wine fairly deep in color (for a Pinot) and medium bodied, with mouth watering (yet well balanced) acidity, mild floral notes of violets and jasmine, dense fruit flavors of spiced cherry and raspberry, and a long rich finish with refined notes of cigar box and sweet spice. As an additional note, this August Briggs Pinot Noir was a unanimous hit among 12 participants in a wine class I hosted last week,  featured among five other quality wines (2 Rhone style whites, a Burgundy, and a quality Alexander Valley Bordeaux style red).

This wine can be found for around $40 and should nicely compliment moderately seasoned dishes of pork, lamb, game, or beef, and a number of red wine, herb, or fruit based sauces. I would also  recommend grilled or roasted vegetables, hearty soups, or more simply even meatloaf or lasagna. If you’re a cheese lover, try a hearty Swiss, Gouda, Parmesan, Manchego, or any of your favorite savory hard cheeses.

Liberta Toscana Collazzi 2008; Super Tuscan

With nearly 1 Million registered vineyards and a long tradition of wine making going back nearly 4,000 years, Italy is one of the largest consumers of wine, one of the largest exporters, and the 2^nd largest producer in the world at nearly 1.3 billion gallons each year. An amazing accomplishment for a country only slightly larger in land mass than the U.S. state of Arizona! Thinking of wine as food, being part of nearly every meal, it should be no surprise that the Italians have mastered the creation of wine with some of the greatest natural affinity for food in the world.

The 2008 Liberta Toscana Collazzi is a Super Tuscan blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Syrah, and 25% Sangiovese, lending a new world style to an old world terrior. This is a great red table wine with the plump dark fruit and chocolate character you would expect in a Merlot, complimented with French oak, dusty berry, black cherry notes, and a mild tobacco finish. Add to that a rustic Italian personality and a velvety soft mouth feel, and we have something fun to talk about!

With a consistent 88 point rating by both Robert Parker and Wine Spectator, this is a very nice Super Tuscan available for $20 to $25. I recommend this wine to “drink now” while the fruit is fresh and vibrant, as opposed to laying it down.

Tasting Miner Family Wines; Including "The Oracle"

Today I participated in a tasting of 6 fantastic Miner Family wines while being narrated to (in person) by none other than Dave Miner himself. What a treat! While I’m familiar with previous vintages, today’s tasting really stood out to me as being over the top.

Three Whites Tasted: 2009 California Viognier (stainless steel fermented, shows plush and creamy impressions of peach, kiwi, citrus and honeysuckle with mouth watering acidity – available for $15 to $20); 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay (somewhat of a Valley vineyard cuvee, as I understand it, with a tasty balance of toasted French oak and moderate malolactic fermentation, this is a crisp Chardonnay showing spicy apple and pear, melon, and citrus on the nose with a creamy custard like mouth feel – available for $25 to $30); 2007 Wild Yeast Chardonnay (fermented with natural yeast as opposed to cultured, this is a dark golden and full bodied Chardonnay with outstanding depth and complexity showing flavors and aromas of nutty butterscotch and a blooming bouquet of honey laden fruit, apple, ripe pear, and spiced apricot – smooth, creamy, and rich to say the least – available for $40 to $50).

Three Reds Tasted: 2006 Stagecoach Vineyard Merlot (blind tasted, you might mistake for a Cabernet Sauvignon due to its intense fruit and tannin structure with notes of blackberry, herbal spice, and sweet tobacco – available for $35 to $40); 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (with a moderate tannin structure leaving a nice mouth feel and a worthy finish, this is a classic Cabernet with depth and complexity showing concentrated flavors of black cherry, cassis, and licorice laced with well integrated French oak – available for $55 to $60); And finally the Flagship, the 2006 Oracle (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot, 5% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot – available for $80 to $90). How do I put this into words…WOW! This is a concentrated fruit, vanilla, and herb driven, powerful and complex Bordeaux blend with incredible structure, a soft French oak presence, fantastic mouth feel, and a notable finish lasting a full 2 minutes on MY palate. Some of the specific aromas and flavors I found included blackberry, currant, vanilla spiced oak, and cocoa.

Founded in 1998 by Dave and Emily Miner, along with his folks Ed and Norma, Miner Family Vineyards has maintained an unparalleled commitment to product quality and customer service. While I’ve not yet been, their tasting room is open to the public and comes highly recommended. If you ever have the opportunity to meet Dave, you’ll immediately recognize his fiery passion to not only make great wine, but to ignite something in everyone around him to expect nothing less.

Neyers Cabernet Sauvignon AME, 2006 (Napa Valley)

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from organically farmed Conn Valley ranch, rated 91 points by Robert Parker / 92 points by Wine Spectator, this full bodied Neyers Cabernet is sure to earn loyalty from the purest at heart.

AME “ahm” (French for “soul”), is a fitting description for such an intense Cabernet. You can expect a wonderful dusty like berry cuvee, black currant, and black cherry with subtly integrated licorice, spice, and sage on the nose that continues on the palate with a long complex finish and healthy tannins that can easily be enjoyed today with intensity, or in 10 to 15 years for a softer mouthfeel and a complex fruit structure one could only imagine.

The heart of this wine is reflective of the hillsides and valley floor from which it’s birthed, located in the hills east of St Helena at elevations ranging from 300 to 1200 feet. Bruce and Barbara Neyers (founders of Neyers Vineyards in 1992) have been dedicated to sustainable organic farming since 1998, with the reward yielding richer, more complex, and more flavorful fruit matched by few competitors, not to mention the improvement of overall soil health and crop viability promising consistent quality for years to come.

You can expect to see this Cabernet Sauvignon for anywhere from $70 to $80 per bottle (more than a fair price for such quality, organic care, a limited 550 case production, and the personalized attention of renowned winemaker Ehren Jordan from Turley Cellars). Be it a gift for a great friend or for yourself, or to pair with a quality marinated steak, Neyers Cabernet Sauvignon AME is sure to impress!