Krug Grande Cuvee; Champagne fit for kings!

I had an incredible opportunity this morning to taste 3 classic Krug Champagnes, the third being the great Krug Grande Cuvee. To call this the Cadillac of Champagnes would be an insult! More like the Lamborghini Reventon I’d say (you might want to “google” that so we’re on the same page). Blended from multiple growths, over six to ten different years, and as many as 150 parcels, this champagne truly is an ageless symphony of harmonizing aromas and flavors that continue to open and evolve with every savored sip. I found it to have a very complex and ever changing nose of butter-cream, grain, biscuit, honey, and ripened tree fruit with incredible depth and boldness. That’s just the beginning! Let me see if I can paint a more vivid picture. Imagine your grandmother’s apple pie baking in the oven (assuming she was a great cook resulting from generations of teaching and the beneficiary of treasured family recipes from at least a century past), homemade completely from scratch with a rich and flaky buttery crust and fresh specially seasoned apple filling. You’re getting closer, but there’s still something more. You know where the apple filling oozes out around the finger pinched crusted edge, thickens, turns to a syrupy golden brown, and even burns (just a little) here and there? Now you’re getting it! You really have to try this champagne for yourself to grasp its quality. A culmination of Krug family tradition dating back to 1843 founded by Johann-Joseph Krug, the Grande Cuvee is truly a sensational taste experience fit for kings.

Carrying a 95 point rating from Wine Spectator, quality does come at a price - especially when it’s in limited supply. Considering that Krug champagnes account for less than half of 1 percent of champagnes available in the market, count yourself lucky to even find the Grande Cuvee, let alone for anything less than a worthy $150. But hey, it’s CHRISTMAS! Not to mention that we're about to break from the chains of 2010, and celebrate in a new year of hope and breakthrough... Krug Grande Cuvee would be a great pinnacle on which to start.

Aging Wines: What to lay down and what to drink

A wine is worth aging if it has the ability to improve in quality over time. While wine is perishable and capable of going bad, there is an evolution that takes place in the bottle involving complex chemical reactions associated with sugars, acids, and tannins that will affect the aroma, color, mouth-feel, and overall taste. While the preferred profile of a wine is going to be subjective, most “in the know” will agree that not all wines will improve with age. Grape variety, viticultural practices, region, vintage, and style will influence a particular wine’s ability to successfully age and mature, as will the condition in which it’s kept.

In general, wines with high tannin levels and/or a low PH will have a greater capability of aging – most notably complex or full bodied red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Sangiovese to name a few. Although, just because a wine has a greater capability of aging, doesn’t necessarily mean it will be significantly beneficial. In reality, probably less than 10% of all red wines, and 5% of all white wines are likely to improve significantly enough with age to justify laying it down for more than a year or two. In fact, most inexpensive to moderately priced wines (say $5 to $25 per bottle) purchased in stores today are ready to drink now. A good reason to age a particular wine would be to soften over-powering tannins and better reveal a more mature bouquet of flavors and aromas. There’s really no good reason to age a wine that already has soft tannins and an enjoyable fruit structure. In fact, aging an inexpensive to moderately priced wine can be more detrimental than not, as the fruit and floral aromas may begin to diminish, and volatile chemical and alcohol related off aromas set in.

With age, you’ll notice that white wines will tend to darken, and red wines will lighten as oxidation takes its toll on the pigmentation. Both will take on a yellow or golden hue that will ultimately appear as straw in whites and amber or brick in reds, before finally turning to brown as they begin to break down, over-oxidize, and eventually spoil. Additionally, almost all wine will begin to develop sediment with age as tartaric acid begins to crystallize, and proteins and tannins bond to form particles of matter. In any case, if you decide to lay a wine down, be sure to keep it out of sunlight and at a consistent temperature as close to 65 degrees as possible. Once opening, the use of a decanter will help blow off volatile off aromas, restore a pleasant bouquet, and separate unwanted sediment.

I believe that more wine is consumed too old, rather than too young, as I too have been guilty of aging wines for no better reason than because I was saving good bottles for perfect occasions that never seem to be good enough to warrant opening them. I wonder how many bottles of wine are left behind, or go bad, because they were forgotten or left behind by those passing on. Enough is enough! There is no promise for tomorrow! Pull that cork, bond with some American, French, Italian, Spanish, or Argentinean terroir, and enjoy life while you can!

Expensive Wine vs. Cheap Wine: What’s the Difference?

Contrary to popular belief, the margins are surprisingly similar in new world wines! Besides the obvious price differences in “buying power” between a small winery and a large conglomerate when it comes to product and materials, there is a significant quality factor at play (which comes at a great difference in expense).

Mechanical Night Harvest

A large conglomerate that mass produces an inexpensive new world wine will typically utilize a mechanical harvest that isn’t selective about the grapes it’s dropping. That’s right, I said “dropping”. A mechanical harvest typically involves a tractor that mechanically grabs, and shakes the vines until the grapes drop to the ground or into a catch and conveyor that dumps them into a large bin. While this is a fast and efficient method for a massive harvest, keep in mind that bruised, ripe, unripe and even rotten grapes are gathered along with bugs, bird droppings, sticks, leaves, and anything else you can imagine to be thrown into the crush. While a certain amount of human interaction is involved for sorting, only the large and obvious issues are likely to be tended to - especially during night harvests. In good humor, you might say there is likely a good representation of nature (rather than terrior) in a $4 bottle, or a $15 to $20 box of wine. Unfortunately, when you press all the ____ in with an inconsistent quality of grapes (if you’re lucky, it’s all floated or rinsed in hose water prior to the crush), all you’ll likely get is a light bodied, bland, watered down, slightly fruity, and low quality glass of wine. Sound familiar? Oh, and it’s typically going to be spiked with the maximum allowable level of sulfites (in the form of sulfur dioxide powder) to act as a preservative, slow oxidation, and inhibit the growth of bacteria both in the wine and the winery equipment. Rather than consulting the services of an experienced wine maker to assist in arriving at a premium product with optimum flavor, body, and finish, the goal is simply to make the wine drinkable and tasty – which, when I was a college boy and didn’t know any better, was good enough to quench my thirst without leaving me broke. While there are going to be exceptions to the rule (as higher quality organizations may invest more in the sorting process), just remember that as in nearly everything, you get what you pay for.

You can expect quite the contrary from a more expensive wine, as the grapes have usually been hand harvested (in some cases multiple times to insure optimum quality and ripeness), and great pride and care has gone into the entire process. Most of your higher quality wines could actually qualify as certified organic (lacking only the extensive government imposed paperwork, costly permits, and time consuming inspections) – considering the level of “hands-on” daily attention employed in the vineyard. An experienced (and usually well known) wine maker is hired (or at least consulted) to assist in developing a polished and high quality finished product that meets the target goals and expectations of the winery owner. The wine is aged to an optimum level before being shipped to selective outlets, and samples are submitted to well known rating services such as Robert Parker and Wine Spectator to add respectable credibility and earn public trust in the market. A legacy of quality, respectable ratings, and a loyal customer following can increase demand for a limited production wine to the point that the price may seem out of reach for many. However, while quality comes at a price, it’s usually available from around $12 to $15 per bottle for a young and light to medium bodied fruity wine, to $18 to $75 for a slightly older, medium to heavy bodied and complex wine with a longer finish. In short, lower price equates to less attention to detail that was applied both in the vineyard and the winery, which will be reflected (and is typically easily detectable) in the quality of the final product.

If you’ve ever wondered why you should buy a $30 bottle of wine rated 90 points by Robert Parker, when there’s a $15 bottle rated at 88 points, keep in mind that the point system is also relative to price (not to mention someone’s opinion). That $30 bottle of wine would likely be rated much higher if sold for much less, or significantly lower if sold for much higher. Once again, rest assured that you’re usually getting what you pay for.

Wine & Headaches

Millions of people report getting headaches after drinking wine, and I’m not necessarily talking about a hang over the next day. Some people report getting headaches after drinking white wine, others after drinking red, and some after drinking ANY wine. I’ll admit that even I get headaches now and then after drinking red wine, frequently after drinking cheap red wine, and sometimes even after eating a lot of cheese. If you’ve ever wondered what brings this phenomenon on, this article is for you!

While dehydration can play a significant roll in how you’ll feel the day after drinking, there are different things that influence the way your body metabolizes alcohol. DNA, age, gender, health, and your level of physical activity all play a roll in how each of us reacts to alcohol. Regardless, there are a few common factors to be considered, such as tryamine, histamines, tannins, and sulfites.

Tyramine is a chemical found in red wine that is said to dilate blood vessels, which can trigger migraines in some people. Tyramine is typically produced during fermentation of food products, which means it can be present in over ripened or dried fruit, matured or aged meat, processed food, and cheese. While cream cheese has little notable amounts of Tyramine, most aged cheeses are highly concentrated along with cured meat, fermented soy products (such as sauces and tofu), and any processed food containing yeast extract or shrimp paste. If Tyramine is causing your problems, you might try sticking to less concentrated white wines and cutting back on aged and cured foods a little. Or if you’re like me, you’ll just take it in stride and “suffer” the side affects now and then.

Histamines are organic nitrogen compounds that triggers an inflammatory response in your body. Histamines are found naturally in fermented foods and beverages by the fermenting of bacteria or yeasts, and are reportedly more prevalent in red wine than in white. There are a number of “experts” around that dispute any evidence to this, but I’ve known people that will actually begin sneezing sporadically, and start sounding like they’re coming down with a cold after 4 or more glasses of red wine (while showing obvious signs of intoxication). According to Wickipedia, wine contains 2-10 mg of histamine per liter, while Sake contains 20-40mg/L. More likely than not, histamines would potentially have a magnifying affect on a person who already suffers from allergies during such profiled seasons. Either way, it shouldn’t be too difficult to accept the idea that you could get a sinus headache from drinking too much red wine. I’ve heard of people taking an inhibitor an hour or so before consuming red wine (such as aspirin, acetaminophen, or ibuprofen), but be sure to adhere to their warnings that if you consume three or more alcoholic beverages per day, you should consult with a doctor before taking their product.

Tannins are the flavonoids found in grape skins, stems, and seeds that give a wine that mouth-drying sensation when left in contact with the juice during production. While tannins are typically more noticeable in red wines (as that’s where they derive their color), they are also absorbed through barrel aging. Some experts have reported that tannins can cause the release of serotonin (a neurotransmitter), of which high levels can cause headaches in people who suffer from migraines. If tannins are the cause of your headaches, you could try limiting your wine consumption to whites that typically forego barrel aging – such as Riesling, Italian Pinot Grigio, or Torrontes.

Sulfites occur naturally in all wines (protecting them from oxidation and bacteria), and can also be added as a preservative to enhance the aging process. Without that sulfur, grape juice would simply turn into vinegar. Generally speaking, white wines will typically contain more sulfites than red wines, and sweet dessert wines will contain more than dry wines. While sulfites are reported as being among the top nine food allergens, less than 1% of the population is supposed to have a reaction to them, and at this time there are reportedly no reliable studies that link sulfites to migraines. If sulfites are your main concern, then it should also be noted that they’re used as a food preservative as well (especially in dried fruit and potato products), and can be labeled as sulfur dioxide, potassium bisulfite or metabisulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, or sodium sulfite. Asthmatics and people with aspirin sensitivity are warned that they may be at an elevated risk for sulfite reactions that typically include sneezing, swelling of the throat, and hives.

Do your homework and you’ll find numerous reliable studies that support the information provided above. On a more personal note, I’ve found there to be a number of ways for the average person to avoid minor headaches from drinking wine. When I was a youngster in the Air Force working on planes, I had the opportunity more than once to witness the miraculous “hang over” combating attributes that a pilot’s oxygen mask held. It’s pretty amazing how breathing low pressure pure oxygen for a minute or two can knock out a headache better than any drug on the market. While I can’t recommend trying this at home (due to obvious dangers), you should make a mental note of the cause and effect. If you’ve ever wondered why one day you can drink to your hearts content with no negative “day after” affects, and then another day you suffer with a terrible headache after barely drinking anything, you should consider your level of activity. The harder you’re breathing and the faster your heart is beating, the more oxygen is being brought in and pumped throughout your body. In general, your liver can metabolize one 5oz glass of wine per hour with minimal side effects. However, you can get a leg up on the task if you’re healthy, active, hydrated, and eating something while you drink. I’ve found that I’m more likely to get a headache after drinking a glass or two of wine when I drink alone and I’m sedentary, than when I’m with company and having a good time. Besides, a bottle of wine is always better when shared with someone!

Amarone della Valpolicella

Better known as simply “Amarone” (Ah-ma-ROH-nay), this is typically a powerful, high-extract Veronese (Italian) wine often showing ripe and raisined fruit, earth, and smoke. Amarone will generally consist of 50 to 70% (or sometimes even more) Corvina grapes (a cool climate red variety from the Veneto region of northern Italy), and blended with lesser percentages of Rondinella and Molinara grapes, and sometimes even Sangiovesse and Pinot Nero, all dried prior to pressing to concentrate the juices and maximize skin contact bringing tannins, color, and intense flavor to the wine. While traditionally the grapes were air dried on straw mats, today it’s typically done in controlled drying chambers to minimize handling and help prevent the onset of Botrytis cinerea (fungus or rot).

If you prefer a high alcohol dry red wine, this is a great choice easily showing 15 to 17% (with a legal minimum of 14%). However, with the labor intensive process required to produce a quality Amarone (and release dates often 4 or 5 years after harvest), you can expect to pay a worthy price ranging from $25 to $100 or more.

Ossobuco with Risotto

While some prefer to drink this wine by itself after a meal (as it can be a little difficult to pair), it can still compliment strong and richly flavored foods such as Parmigiano-Reggiano or true Gorgonzola cheese, or a slow cooked beef dish or Ossobuco (cross-cut veal shanks braised with vegetables) with red wine and broth. Another great match would be slow cooked beef ribs and potatoes with Sicilian Caponata (a cooked vegetable salad consisting of chopped fried eggplant, celery, and even stewed tomatoes if you like). The idea (or suggestion) is to pair this intense wine with a strongly favored cheese or slow cooked dish from the general region of its origin to recognize its full potential.

Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Before embarking on my educational path to wine, I had always heard that the only difference between Champagne and Sparkling Wine was its origin (referring to Champagne only being from Champagne, France), and that the size of the bubbles was an indication of its quality. Um, there’s a little more to it than that. Here’s a little history, a brief and interesting explanation of how quality sparkling wine is made, and a few simple suggestions for selecting a delicious bubbly.

It’s true that only sparkling wines produced in Champagne, France should technically be referred to as “Champagne”, and those made elsewhere as “sparkling wine”. As for the history, it’s said that Champagne was accidentally discovered by the Benedictine monk Dom Perignon (1638-1715); however, most of those stories you’ll find posted on the web are a bit far fetched. In reality (dating back to the 17^th century), the Champenois were competing with their Burgundian neighbors to the south to produce similar quality RED wines, but the grapes struggled to ripen fully with the colder temperatures in Champagne, and they (the cooler temperatures) also caused fermentation to halt prematurely in the cellars (leaving dormant yeast cells). When the warmth of the spring hit, fermentation would start up again (now in the bottle) resulting in the release and buildup of carbon dioxide gas. With pressure building inside of the weak early French glass bottles, they would explode causing havoc in the cellars. If the bottle survived, the wine had bubbles, and was considered to be faulty. While Dom Perignon and the rest of the late 17^th century Champenois wine makers were trying to rid their wines of the troubling bubbles, the British were developing a taste for them. As you can imagine, if fermentation was thought to have finished, the wine was bottled, sold, and shipped before the chaos of a warm spring began. As time went on, more Champenois wine makers were trying to make their wines sparkle deliberately, as it eventually became a favorite among the nobles. For years they struggled to control the process and make wine bottles that were strong enough to withstand the pressure. It wasn’t until the 19^th century that the obstacles were finally overcome, and the modern Champagne wine industry was birthed.

Methode Champenoise (pronounced: meh-TOHD  sham-pen-WAH) or “the Champagne Method”, also known as Methode Traditionale outside of France, is a time honored process (historically evolved and perfected) that typically takes a year or more to fully complete. It is considered to be the most natural and highest quality method in the production of top quality sparkling wines. Basically, the wine goes through two stages of fermentation, the second actually being in the bottle you’ll end up purchasing. Carbon dioxide develops naturally (as opposed to being artificially injected), and more than 100 PSI will build up in the bottle eventually dissolving into the wine. Spent yeast cells will sink to the bottom of the bottle and form sediment (called lees), and many quality wines will be aged in contact with the lees to add a creamy mouth-feel to a rich and flavorful sparkling wine. Once the aging period is over, the necks of the bottles (having been kept upside down and in constant motion during this second fermentation) are frozen, the bottles are turned right side up, the caps are popped, the frozen lees (formed into plugs) shoot out, and the bottles are corked before the carbonation escapes the well chilled wine. Compared to other methods, sparkling wines produced by Methode Champenoise (which is the only method practiced in Champagne, France) will typically show nicer and longer in the glass with rich yet delicate and complex nuances, and countless streams of dazzling bubbles leading your nose to a crisp vapor of succulent fruit.

Sparkling wines are typically available from very dry to sweet (offering various appealing styles to satisfy your preference or pair with your favorite dish) and are usually labeled as follows (bolded are the most common found in stores here in the US):

Brut Nature (bone dry) - 0 to 3 grams of sugar per litre
Extra Brut (nearly bone dry) - 0 to 6 grams of sugar per litre
Brut (very dry) - 0 to 12 grams of sugar per litre

Extra Sec or Extra Dry (off-dry to dry) - 12 to 17 grams of sugar per litre

Sec or Dry (semi-sweet) - 17 to 32 grams of sugar per litre

Demi Sec (sweet) - 32 to 50 grams of sugar per litre
Doux or Sweet (very sweet) - 50+ grams of sugar per litre

A sparkling wine labeled “Blanc de Noir” simply means that it’s a white wine made from Pinot Noir (or black) grapes. Because the skins are removed before the color is extracted, it will still typically appear as a white (or pink) sparkling wine, and its flavor can be fairly full bodied and complex.

A sparkling wine labeled “Blanc de Blanc” means that it’s a white wine made from white (or green) grapes (typically Chardonnay) and is usually a lighter and fruitier version than a Blanc de Noir.

Your safest investment is to make sure the sparkling wine you purchase is either from Champagne, France, or is labeled as having been produced by Methode Champenoise or Methode Traditionale. In my experience, most wineries willing to invest the necessary (costly and time consuming) efforts required for this method are more likely to have a quality product worth trying. While you can find sparkling wines made by Methode Champenoise for as little as $7 per bottle in some stores, you’re likely to better enjoy something around the $20 to $40 range that will typically show more depth and unique complexity, and better reflect its regional terrior as well as the creative touch of its maker.

Remember, just because it’s a “sparkling” wine doesn’t mean it has lost its affinity for food. Champagne doesn’t need to be limited to special occasions, celebrations, and dessert. Like other white wines, it still pairs nicely with a number of cheeses and great dishes like crab and lobster, Mediterranean prepared veggies and fruit, Asian dishes,  chicken, and so much more!

Don’t be afraid to experiment while you celebrate life!

Pairing Wine & Food

I once read that wine is to the French and Italian table as salt and pepper (or healthier substitutions) are to the American table. While there was a time it might have been that simple, today we have a vast number of grape varieties and unique wines from around the world at our fingertips, fantastic cuisines from every ethnicity pumping out over the food network, and five star recipes printed in magazines and shared all over the web. Making a selection from hundreds, even thousands of fine wines available in any given store in hopes of successfully pairing it with dinner can seem like a daunting task. It’s no wonder that most people will get stuck on one or two wines, and drink them with everything. What are the rules of pairing wine with food? Where do you start? How much will you have to spend? How many wines will you have to taste through? It’s really not as complicated as it sounds.

There are NO rules because taste is subjective. That being said, there are some very good and logical suggestions, and a chronological order for their consideration.

1. LEVEL/QUALITY - Pair the wine with the level of occasion and/or the quality of the dish. You wouldn’t dip a quality and well prepared filet mignon in ketchup, well it’s probably not a good idea to drink a $4 bottle of wine with it either.

2. WEIGHT - Pair the weight of the wine with the weight of the dish - light wines with light dishes, heavy wines with heavy dishes.

3. MIRROR - Pair a wine that mirrors the flavors and characteristics of the dish. Are you using a butter or fruit sauce, pepper, or herbs? You might consider a wine that shares those same characteristics.

4. FAT - For a heavier dish with high levels of fat, it’s a good idea to remember that acid cuts through fat, and tannins stand up to it. So consider either a medium to highly acidic wine, or one with heavy tannins.

5. LOCATION - Consider location and/or ethnicity in your pairing. Not necessarily the meat, pasta, or veggies, but the style in which it’s prepared – Mediterranean, Asian, Cajun, Italian, French, etc. If available, try matching a wine from the same region.

6. SPICE – A chilled slightly sweet wine will tame the heat of a dish and bring out its flavor. Avoid tannic wines as they irritate the soft tissue of your mouth to create the dry feeling you get, and will actually make a spicy dish seem even spicier while totally blocking the flavor.

7. DESSERT – Because a sweet wine will typically have a high level of acidity to balance its sweetness, you should make sure that your dessert wine is sweeter than your dessert. Otherwise, your dessert could strip away the sweetness of the wine, leaving an unpleasant level of acidity on the palate.

While there are no perfect food and wine pairings (because everyone tastes things differently), the truth is that most wines go with most foods. Don’t get stuck on “rules”, drink what you like! Most stores have their wine divided into regions, and by variety within each. Start with the 8 main (4 white and 4 red) international grape varieties (Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Syrah/Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon). You’ve probably done a little research to create your dish, now do a little research to pair your wine. Or, determine the basic type of wine you want to pair with your dish, and go to a specialty wine store with a knowledgeable staff that can help you find it. Know your budget and stay within it. There are some very good wines in the $9 to $12 range, and great wines in the $18 to $30 range. Simply put, if you can afford better than that, your reward will usually be a more complex wine with a longer finish.

EXPERIMENT AND HAVE FUN!

Ambiguous Fruit Descriptors For Wine

I was recently participating in a weekly wine tasting ritual with a colleague of mine where we break down and define various glasses of wine following a sequence consistent with the certified sommelier exam. In this process we found it humorous that we were making references to fruits we’ve never tasted, and to make it even more ridiculous we discovered we were trying to reference fruits we couldn’t even define. Finding this unacceptable, we were prompted to do a little research for the sake of clarity. There are three fruit descriptors that are particularly ambiguous among most wine enthusiasts I’ve come across.

Currant

Among the definitions I found were these: A small seedless raisin, and/or the small, edible, acidic, round fruit or berry of certain wild cultivated shrubs, and/or any various similar fruits or shrubs. A small dried seedless grape of the Mediterranean, a member of the gooseberry family. Currant can be black, red, or white. 

Cassis

Among the definitions I found were these: A black-currant cordial, black currant liquor, a brandy distilled from black currants. In wine tasting, this term should be used over black currant to denote a more concentrated, richer flavor.

Stone Fruit

Among the definitions I found were these: A fruit with a stone (or a pit) or hard endocarp, such as a peach or a plum, the non-technical name for drupe which is defined as any fruit, such as a peach, cherry, plum, nectarine, apricot, etc., consisting of an outer skin, a usually pulpy and succulent middle layer, and a hard and woody inner shell usually enclosing a single seed.

While taste is still very subjective, even for the purpose of fruit descriptive references, this should provide a common ground of understanding and photographic clarity.

OAKED or UN-OAKED? That is the question!

There are many preferences regarding oaked verses un-oaked wines, but most of them in my experience are based strictly on the robust flavor of OAK itself. Did you know that a wine can be aged in oak without really having any “woody” characteristics at all? Would you associate the delicious flavors of dark chocolate, butterscotch, or molasses with an oaked wine? You should, because that’s one of the only natural ways a wine maker can manipulate those layers of complexity into their product. You can usually tell if a wine has been aged in oak by its aromas and flavors.

French Oak and American Oak are the most common types of barrels used for aging wine. French Oak is more commonly used for higher quality wines as it adds elegant flavors like vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. American Oak typically adds more aggressive flavors of vanilla, toasted coconut, and dill. The more a barrel is used, the less effective it is in contributing to the wine in terms of flavor; consequently, most barrels are only used once or twice before being discarded or sold for other uses.

Here are some barrel aging associations you can relate flavor to the next time you’re characterizing a wine:

General wood flavors include the obvious: oak, cedar, sawdust, and even cigar box (which is a fairly common characteristic found in Pinot Noirs and Cabernet Sauvignons).

Less obvious wood flavors include vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, toasted coconut, dill, and even black pepper (which is a fairly common characteristic found in a Red Zinfandel).

Charring on the inside of a barrel can produce flavors of smoke, toasted bread, and campfire, as well as coffee, dark chocolate, and nuts.

Oxidation aromas from barrel aging can also reflect caramel, butterscotch, honey, and molasses in the wine.

FYI: The buttery flavor characteristic of many domestic chardonnays is NOT typically a result of oak barrel aging, but rather of Malolactic Fermentation (which is a secondary fermentation process where malic acid is converted to lactic acid via Lactobacillus bacteria).

So the next time you’re tasting a wine and someone asks if it has been barrel aged, you’ll be able to make a more accurate and worthy assumption, be able to explain theoretically why you’re leaning one way or the other, and your friends will marvel at your wisdom and skill!

Aromas & Flavors In Wine, How To Find & Define Them

Have you ever shared a glass of wine with someone that had the ability to describe the aromas and flavors you’re sensing, when you had no idea until they suggested it? Now here’s the key, were you able to respond saying, “hey…I do sense that”? If you’ve ever wished you could do that, there is hope! I’m here to tell you that YOU CAN! Are you able to recognize the taste of apple, pineapple, lemon, melon, or pear? How about black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, plum, cinnamon, or chocolate? Of course you can! And if you can’t, then you should taste and smell these things until you can. The next time you’re in a supermarket, go through the produce section and pick up different fruits and vegetables and SMELL THEM! Start smelling everything – wood, tree bark, aluminum, etc. It won’t cost you anything, and you’ll familiarize yourself with a whole new world of aromas. Now here’s the trick, the next time you’re having a glass of wine, don’t leave your senses in the dark to randomly guess the aromas or flavors that might be present – unless that works for you. Consider what you’re drinking, along with characteristics that are common in it, and specifically ask yourself if you can taste them. For example, if you’re enjoying a dark red wine, be specific and intentionally think to yourself, “do I taste blackberry, raisin, blueberry, cocoa, spice, cracked pepper, tobacco, or oak?” Or if you’re having a white wine, specifically think, “do I taste tropical fruit, citrus, pineapple, apple, lemon, melon, or pear?” Is the fruit ripe or green? Do you detect minerality, grass, or oak?

As you become more experienced, you can use this same technique to define a glass of wine in a blind taste setting. Be positive and intentional, don’t give up, and never say “I can’t”! I’ve heard so many people say, “my nose just isn’t as sensitive as yours”…or “I’ve never been good at breaking down a wine”. Interestingly enough, those same people will ask, “what am I supposed to taste here”, have you read the back of the bottle to them, and then say, “I get that!”. Stop letting other people dictate taste to you. It’s subjective and should not be the result of suggestive manipulation, although the latter can be fun to try now and then.

Just How Old Is Your Wine?

With that title you probably thought I was referring to the wine that might be in your glass. I’ll get to that a little later, but your original impression wasn’t too far off – it’s all how you look at it. We may refer to vintages by the year the grapes were harvested, but I assure you that without a rooted vine, there would be no wine. So here’s a few thousand years of wine history summed up in a paragraph or two for a common foundation.

Ancient Greek Amphorae

There is archaeological evidence to suggest that the earliest wine production dates back to 6000 BC in Georgia and Iran, and the earliest European wine production uncovered in Macedonia dates back 6,500 years ago. Among the many advancements of ancient Greece was that of numerous wine making practices that are still used today, not to mention the first successful storage vessels called amphorae (am-FOR-ee). To keep the wine from spoiling, they floated olive oil on the surface as a barrier for oxidation; thus, the Greeks were the first to successfully age and mature wine. The Greeks traded not only wine, but the vine as well throughout Europe, which included parts of southern France, Portugal and Spain, and Enotria, meaning “land of wine”, known today as Italy. The Romans were the first to have a basic understanding of terroir (ter-WAH), learned how to match specific grape varieties to their ideal climates and growing conditions, advanced in full scale breeding of wine grape vines, implemented trellising and vineyard maintenance, and spread wine throughout modern-day Italy, France, Portugal, Spain, Germany, and beyond during their reign. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Catholic Church was the only entity strong enough to preserve the cultural aspects of wine production through the Dark Ages, and is known to have first planted and maintained some of the top European vineyards and wine regions in existence today. Spanish missionaries were the first to plant Vitis Vinifera (Vy-tis vin-uh-FER-uh) vines in, what is today, the United States in the 1590’s (most likely in the New Mexico area). The cork (produced from the bark of the cork oak tree) was first introduced in the 1600’s. The first wine grapes planted in California are believed to have been near the Mission San Diego in 1768. Louis Pasteur was the scientist that discovered and proved that microscopic yeast cells were responsible for fermentation in 1857. Wine makers in southern France nearly wiped out the worlds stock of wine grape vines in the 1860’s when they brought the American native Vitis labrusca (table grape vines) back to France with phylloxera in the dirt; and Thomas Munson of Denison, Texas developed rootstocks to resist it, and they were shipped all over the wine making world in the late 1880’s for grafting. Prohibition in the US began on January 17^th, 1920 and lasted 13 years until it was repealed in 1933.





Now to bring us a little closer to that glass of wine you’re holding now. Steven Spurrier (an Englishman who made his living selling premium French wines as a merchant in Paris) organized what is known today as the “Spurrier Tasting” or the “Judgment of Paris” on May 24^th, 1976. If you haven’t seen it, I highly recommend the movie “Bottle Shock” (released on August 6^th, 2008) as it’s based on this permanent mark in history, and is a “must have” movie for any wine enthusiast. Unfortunately, like all “based on true story” movies, it’s not entirely accurate. “Bottle Shock” implies that the blind tasting event was intended to be fair; however, the official judges were all French wine authorities, authors, sommeliers, and wine makers, and the California wines were pitted against the top white wines from Burgundy and the top red wines from Bordeaux. Nonetheless, Napa Valley’s 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was still chosen as the top white wine, and 1973 Stags Leap Cellars SLV Cabernet Sauvignon was chosen as the top red wine. Because the prestigious French wines fell impossibly to those of California at the hands of their own advocates, the world of wine would never again be the same! But wait, it gets even better. After the blind tasting in 1976, the French cried foul and claimed that California wines were meant to drink young while French wines would improve with age, only then showing their best qualities. So in 1986 a group of French and American wine critics agreed to reenact the Spurrier Tasting with the same wines from the original vintages, now that they had matured for ten years. Believe it or not, the California wines won again and actually did better than in the original tasting. Not only did these tasting events open the doors to wine makers all over the world, but it’s an interesting coincidence that France began to ease regulations for some of their classifications of wine in the late 1970’s, and Tuscan winemakers began experimenting with nontraditional grapes and blends that make up the Super Tuscan wines we’re familiar with today.




 Now for the glass you have in front of you. Never before in history has there been such an immeasurable supply of quality wines, from so many different regions around the world, and so readily available to virtually everyone. Maybe your wine is the polished product of grapes harvested 4 years ago, that were produced from vines planted 50 years ago, that came from the cuttings of vines that were grafted to Texas rootstocks 120 years ago, that were carefully tended to by our diligent ancestors for hundreds of years prior to that. So before your next drink, slow down and look, I mean REALLY SEE, SMELL, TASTE and EMBRACE the art, craftsmanship, and history that’s in your glass. Those grapes came from vines that have been bred for thousands of years to produce the perfection you hold in your hand today. It’s likely that today’s $10 bottle of wine is significantly superior to anything that was once produced and maintained solely for royalty not that long ago. If you can’t afford what they say is the best, then enjoy the best that you can afford. It doesn’t have to cost $50 to $100 to be absolutely delicious!

Tasting Robert Craig Wines

I had the privilege of meeting and shaking the hand of Robert Craig this morning through a company wine meeting where I currently work part time. This was an exciting day for me as Robert Craig wines are among my choice favorites, and listening to the man himself talk about his wines and passion for quality and consistency kept my attention like a kid in a candy store.  What a treat it was, tasting our way through 5 award-winning, Bordeaux style, terroir based Cabernets from the mountain and hillside vineyards of Napa Valley. While every winery owner will pitch a good sell on their wine, these fantastic classics will speak for themselves if given the chance.

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/

We tasted first the elegant 2007 Affinity from Robert Craig’s estate vineyard in the foothills south of Stag’s Leap, which showed supple and velvety tannins, an ample display of fruit, with incredible texture and exceptional length (well balanced and substantial for nearly 2 minutes by my watch). The tannins were big enough to expect significant quality from this wine for years to come, yet plush enough to indulge in today.

Next we tasted the 2006 & 2007 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignons. Not to jump ahead of myself, but WOW! What quality and consistency! They’re just a fantastic meld of aromas and flavors of cassis, chocolate, subtle cedar, and a creamy spice. While I found the tannins somewhat similar to the Affinity, each wine and vintage holds its own defining character like no other.

Finally, we tasted the 2006 & 2007 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignons. Once again, exceeding my expectations, a layered explosion of concentrated flavors. And the consistency between the two vintages is just uncanny. This wine is an exceptional treat to revel in today with a premium quality steak, or treasure it like a gem and share over a special anniversary dinner in 20 years. Either way, you won’t be disappointed.

I heard someone say, “these wines are 1^st growth quality for 2^nd growth prices”, and I couldn’t agree more. If you can afford to invest the $45 to $75 it will cost to enjoy these wines on a regular basis, then you’ll love how they’ll compare to quality big named wines at more than twice the price. If you’re budget is a little tighter than that, I’d recommend buying at least one bottle for a special occasion or celebration (a wedding, anniversary, birthday, college graduation, etc.), or as an extraordinary gift for someone very special and close (and hope that they’ll share it with you when they decide to uncork it).

TEXAS Saves Wine Industry



http://www.pouilly-fume.com/
Root Destroying
Phylloxera

 In the early 1860s, a group of winemakers from southern France had a number of native vines from the US east coast dug up and transplanted into their vineyards. They wanted to know if the Native American table grape species (Vitis labrusca) could produce quality grapes for wine production on French soil. What they didn’t know is that they likely enabled one of the greatest ecological disasters we’ve ever known. It’s believed that in the soil (with the imported Vitis labrusca) they transported tiny insects called phylloxera (a nearly microscopic insect that feeds on the roots and leaves of grape vines – native to the soils of eastern United States). While Vitis labrusca had developed a natural resistance to phylloxera, Vitis vinifera (wine grape vines) was completely vulnerable. Because France was nearly every region’s source for transplanted Vitis vinifera, the world’s inventory of vineyards were nearly destroyed before the epidemic was even discovered.

   

Roughly 20 years later (in the 1880s), a horticulturalist named Thomas Munson in Denison, Texas (previously educated in agricultural sciences at what would become the University of Kentucky) developed rootstocks that resisted phylloxera and adapted well to a variety of different soils that could be grafted onto with wine grape cuttings. By the late 1880s, thousands of bundles of NORTH TEXAS rootstocks were being shipped to the wine making world [including France where Munson was named a chevalier (and/or knight) for his efforts that saved the vineyards of Europe], and grape growers were able to begin grafting their wine grape vines onto them.

So does that mean that nearly all of the wine grape vines in the world are partially rooted here in TEXAS? Things that make you go… “Hmm”

Pinot Gris vs Pinot Grigio

Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris wine

grapes in Kaiserstuhl, Germany;

Photo © ndrwfgg

Pinot Gris / PEE-noh GREE (French)

Pinot Grigio / PEE-noh GREE-jee-o (Italian)

Both forms of the word mean “Grey Pinot”. “Pinot” means “Pinecone” in French – possibly named because the grapes grow in small pinecone shaped clusters.

To ditch any confusion, they’re both referring to the same white wine grape variety of the species known as Vitis Vinifera (pronounced VEE-tiss Vih-NIFF-er-ah) – a native European grape species.

There are numerous contradictory articles that can be found on the subject that make general statements on what you can expect of this wine from different regions, but I’ve found there to be exceptions to ALL of them! I’ve read that you can expect French Pinot Gris to almost always be oaked (following tradition) and fuller bodied than Italian Pinot Grigio which is almost always fermented in stainless steel and found to show crispness yet taste almost diluted. I’ve also read that Oregon Pinot Gris (whether they call it Gris or Grigio) tend to follow the French Alsatian style of the wine. But you really have to be careful when making assumptions about American wines, because all the rules are thrown out the window here while nearly every wine maker is trying to redefine (or reinvent) their own version of any given wine. So how many styles are there of this white wine? As many as your palate can detect!

From what I’ve read and tasted, my best recommendation to know the styles of a Pinot Gris or Grigio that you might prefer, is to try them – especially since they’re typically inexpensive. This is an affordable, fun, light, usually “dry” to “medium dry” easy drinking summer wine that can be a little tangy, and will usually have citrus, pear, or apple aromas and flavors. To enhance your enjoyment, try pairing this wine with seafood, light pastas and cheese, and roasted or sautéed veggies (especially red peppers and mushrooms). Just a little hint to help your wine pair better with a roasted or sautéed dish, add it to the ingredients or as a glaze just before taking it off the heat.

Instead of buying a case of (or getting stuck on) any one single Pinot Gris or Grigio, have fun and mix it up the next time you’re restocking. And don’t forget, if you find one that you absolutely love and MUST have again, take a picture of the label with your cell phone so you can reference it the next time you’re in a wine store.