Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Before embarking on my educational path to wine, I had always heard that the only difference between Champagne and Sparkling Wine was its origin (referring to Champagne only being from Champagne, France), and that the size of the bubbles was an indication of its quality. Um, there’s a little more to it than that. Here’s a little history, a brief and interesting explanation of how quality sparkling wine is made, and a few simple suggestions for selecting a delicious bubbly.

It’s true that only sparkling wines produced in Champagne, France should technically be referred to as “Champagne”, and those made elsewhere as “sparkling wine”. As for the history, it’s said that Champagne was accidentally discovered by the Benedictine monk Dom Perignon (1638-1715); however, most of those stories you’ll find posted on the web are a bit far fetched. In reality (dating back to the 17^th century), the Champenois were competing with their Burgundian neighbors to the south to produce similar quality RED wines, but the grapes struggled to ripen fully with the colder temperatures in Champagne, and they (the cooler temperatures) also caused fermentation to halt prematurely in the cellars (leaving dormant yeast cells). When the warmth of the spring hit, fermentation would start up again (now in the bottle) resulting in the release and buildup of carbon dioxide gas. With pressure building inside of the weak early French glass bottles, they would explode causing havoc in the cellars. If the bottle survived, the wine had bubbles, and was considered to be faulty. While Dom Perignon and the rest of the late 17^th century Champenois wine makers were trying to rid their wines of the troubling bubbles, the British were developing a taste for them. As you can imagine, if fermentation was thought to have finished, the wine was bottled, sold, and shipped before the chaos of a warm spring began. As time went on, more Champenois wine makers were trying to make their wines sparkle deliberately, as it eventually became a favorite among the nobles. For years they struggled to control the process and make wine bottles that were strong enough to withstand the pressure. It wasn’t until the 19^th century that the obstacles were finally overcome, and the modern Champagne wine industry was birthed.

Methode Champenoise (pronounced: meh-TOHD  sham-pen-WAH) or “the Champagne Method”, also known as Methode Traditionale outside of France, is a time honored process (historically evolved and perfected) that typically takes a year or more to fully complete. It is considered to be the most natural and highest quality method in the production of top quality sparkling wines. Basically, the wine goes through two stages of fermentation, the second actually being in the bottle you’ll end up purchasing. Carbon dioxide develops naturally (as opposed to being artificially injected), and more than 100 PSI will build up in the bottle eventually dissolving into the wine. Spent yeast cells will sink to the bottom of the bottle and form sediment (called lees), and many quality wines will be aged in contact with the lees to add a creamy mouth-feel to a rich and flavorful sparkling wine. Once the aging period is over, the necks of the bottles (having been kept upside down and in constant motion during this second fermentation) are frozen, the bottles are turned right side up, the caps are popped, the frozen lees (formed into plugs) shoot out, and the bottles are corked before the carbonation escapes the well chilled wine. Compared to other methods, sparkling wines produced by Methode Champenoise (which is the only method practiced in Champagne, France) will typically show nicer and longer in the glass with rich yet delicate and complex nuances, and countless streams of dazzling bubbles leading your nose to a crisp vapor of succulent fruit.

Sparkling wines are typically available from very dry to sweet (offering various appealing styles to satisfy your preference or pair with your favorite dish) and are usually labeled as follows (bolded are the most common found in stores here in the US):

Brut Nature (bone dry) - 0 to 3 grams of sugar per litre
Extra Brut (nearly bone dry) - 0 to 6 grams of sugar per litre
Brut (very dry) - 0 to 12 grams of sugar per litre

Extra Sec or Extra Dry (off-dry to dry) - 12 to 17 grams of sugar per litre

Sec or Dry (semi-sweet) - 17 to 32 grams of sugar per litre

Demi Sec (sweet) - 32 to 50 grams of sugar per litre
Doux or Sweet (very sweet) - 50+ grams of sugar per litre

A sparkling wine labeled “Blanc de Noir” simply means that it’s a white wine made from Pinot Noir (or black) grapes. Because the skins are removed before the color is extracted, it will still typically appear as a white (or pink) sparkling wine, and its flavor can be fairly full bodied and complex.

A sparkling wine labeled “Blanc de Blanc” means that it’s a white wine made from white (or green) grapes (typically Chardonnay) and is usually a lighter and fruitier version than a Blanc de Noir.

Your safest investment is to make sure the sparkling wine you purchase is either from Champagne, France, or is labeled as having been produced by Methode Champenoise or Methode Traditionale. In my experience, most wineries willing to invest the necessary (costly and time consuming) efforts required for this method are more likely to have a quality product worth trying. While you can find sparkling wines made by Methode Champenoise for as little as $7 per bottle in some stores, you’re likely to better enjoy something around the $20 to $40 range that will typically show more depth and unique complexity, and better reflect its regional terrior as well as the creative touch of its maker.

Remember, just because it’s a “sparkling” wine doesn’t mean it has lost its affinity for food. Champagne doesn’t need to be limited to special occasions, celebrations, and dessert. Like other white wines, it still pairs nicely with a number of cheeses and great dishes like crab and lobster, Mediterranean prepared veggies and fruit, Asian dishes,  chicken, and so much more!

Don’t be afraid to experiment while you celebrate life!